Triangle du Tacul

Classic mountaineering in Chamonix, climbing with guide

  • Activity: Alpinism
  • Country: France, Italy
  • Level: F (Easy)
  • Season: January, February, March, April, May, June, July, August, September, October, November, December
  • Max guests: 1

If you are interested in this option, please send me a message through the "Request" button. I will contact you, and we will discuss everything! You can read about my rates by following the link in the "Information" section.

It's no secret that Chamonix is the capital of mountaineering. This place is considered the center of mountain climbing for a reason. Situated at the foot of the Mont Blanc massif, Chamonix serves as a literal base camp and starting point for hundreds of routes to dozens of surrounding peaks. There are 28 peaks over 4,000 meters in the area alone!

Below, I will list the main routes to start with, and from there, the key is to keep going!

Aiguille du Tour, normal route
Aiguille du Tour: Normal route

1. Aiguille du Tour: normal route (3540 m, F, +840 m)

An excellent route for first steps in mountaineering or for acclimatization. Overnight in a comfortable hut, an early start, gradual ascent across gentle glacier fields, and the summit itself with a rocky tower where the way is chosen along ledges and terraces.
Season: summer, autumn.

Mont Blanc du Tacul NF
Mont Blanc du Tacul: Normal route

2. Mont Blanc du Tacul: Normal Route (4248 m, PD, +800 m)

This is one of the most accessible 4,000-meter peaks in Chamonix via the easiest route. After taking the cable car up to Aiguille du Midi, you can reach the summit and make it back down by cable car in time.
Season: summer.

Aiguilles Marbrées Traverse
Aiguilles Marbrées: Traverse N -> S

3. Aiguilles Marbrées Traverse (3535 m, PD, +200 m)

A popular, easy high-altitude traverse. The nature of the route is a rocky ridge, which may be snow-covered depending on the season.
Season: all year.

Aiguille du Peigne - normal route
Aiguille du Peigne: Normal route

4. Aiguille du Peigne: Normal route (3192 m, PD+, +850 m)

This is one of the most popular and straightforward climbing routes accessible from the cable car. For this reason, the route is often crowded. A more interesting option is the combination via the Papillon Ridge, leading to the summit by the classic route. It's longer and more challenging but significantly more exciting!
Season: summer, september, october.

Arête des Cosmiques - Aiguille du Midi
Aiguille du Midi: Arête des Cosmiques

5. Aiguille du Midi: Arête des Cosmiques (3842 m, AD, +300 m)

The most classic of classics in the area. In recent years, traversing this route during the summer months has become dangerous due to rockfalls, but in winter and the off-season, it is an excellent scenic climbing route with a very short approach and a descent by cable car.
Season: winter-spring-autumn, and first part of june.

Pointe Lachenal
Pointe Lachenal: Traverse

6. Pointe Lachenal Traverse (3613 m, AD-, +100 m)

When the most classic of classics is not recommended, this good traverse comes to mind. It's roughly the same difficulty, requires a slightly longer approach, and to return to the cable car, you'll need to gain a couple of hundred meters.
Season: all year.

Aiguille du Chardonnet - Arête Forbes
Aiguille du Chardonnet: Arête Forbes

7. Aiguille du Chardonnet, arête Forbes (3824 m, AD, +1300 m)

A wonderful combined route. Not very difficult. It includes snow, glacier, and rocks. It is long and very popular. The start is from the Albert Premier Hut at 2707 meters.
Season: summer.

Midi Plan Traverse
Midi - Plan Traverse

8. Midi Plan Traverse (3848 m, AD, +300/-300 m, 4 km)

The long combined traverse starts right from the top station of the Aiguille du Midi cable car. It features narrow ridges, traverses above drops, and abseils. Overall, it's an excellent challenging route and additionally, very long. It's not easy to make it from one cable car to the next in time.
Season: summer, autumn.

Couloir Whymper - Aiguille Verte
Aiguille Verte: Whymper couloir

9. Aiguille Verte - Whymper couloir (4122 m, AD+, +1200 m)

Gaston Rébuffat said: "…by climbing the Verte, you become an alpinist". The Whymper Couloir is the classic route to this peak, characterized by snow and ice. The start is from the Couvercle Hut at 2683 meters.
Сезон: апрель-май.

Arête du Diable - Mont Blanc du Tacul
Mont Blanc du Tacul: Arête du Diable

10. Mont Blanc du Tacul, Arête du Diable (4248 m, D+, +1200 m)

This steep granite ridge leads to the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul. Along the way, you will need to climb the Aiguille du Diable, Pointe Chaubert, Pointe Médiane, Pointe Carmen, and Pointe Isolée, each of which is a standalone 4,000-meter peak.
Season: summer.

Included in price

  • Guide's fee
  • Group equipment
  • Assistance with the refuge reservation
  • Accomodation and food in Chamonix for the guide
  • Guide's cable cars

Not included in price

  • Personal equipment rentals
  • Accomodation and food in Chamonix for guest
  • Accomodation and food in refuges for guest
  • Guest's cable cars
  • All transfers