Matterhorn: Hörnli Ridge
- Activity: Alpinism
- Country: Switzerland
- Level: AD (Little difficult)
- Season: July, August, September
- Max guests: 1
- Transfer: 100€ / 100km
Where?
There are two classic climbing routes on Matterhorn, which were used for the first ascents of the peak. From the Italian side, it is the Lion Ridge, and from the Swiss side, it is the Hörnli Ridge.
Training and preparation
Serious preparation is required to climb Matterhorn. Very good physical fitness is extremely important, as well as the ability to climb on rocks and in crampons. Endurance is crucial! The route has an elevation gain of 1200 meters, which needs to be overcome in 4-5 hours, over a challenging terrain, followed by a descent along the same way with considerably depleted energy.
We pay special attention to acclimatization. Since the route to Matterhorn is more difficult than the classic route to Mont Blanc, in addition to acclimatization, we will need to train skills for movement over more challenging terrain, such as rocks and steep ice and snow slopes. For this purpose, we have selected two objects for climbing.
The first is a small rocky peak where we will make a "rock-climbing" ascent and climb on overhanging rocks with our boots. This moment is essential, as everything on Matterhorn will have to be overcome in boots.
The second object is the traverse of the Breithorn massif. It is perfect for acclimatization (the peaks of the massif are over 4,000 meters) and for improving technical skills. The ridge of the massif with rocks is very similar to Matterhorn.
In addition, before the ascent itself, we will spend the night at 3,262 meters in the Hörnli hut, which will add more acclimatization to our bank of experience.
Includes in price
- Guide's fee
- Group equipment
- Assistance in refuges reservation
Do not includes in price
- Personal equipment rentals
- Accomodation and food for guest in Zermatt
- Accomodation and food for guide in Zermatt
- Transfer for guide to Zermatt
- Accomodation and food for guest in refuges
- Accomodation and food for guide in refuges
- Cable cars for guide (special price) and guest
- All transfers
Details
- Group - maximum 1 guest. You will be with a guide for 5 days. The guide will adapt the program to suit you.
- Acclimatization and technical training are focused solely on achieving the goal - climbing Matterhorn. Two days are allocated for acclimatization and preparation, which will allow more flexibility in choosing the day of ascent based on weather conditions.
- Two days are allocated for the ascent, which allows for efficient use of the days, based on the weather and condition of the route.
- One extra day is left as a reserve in case of bad weather, to try to reschedule the ascent. The hut is booked in advance, so rescheduling cannot be guaranteed.
- In case of unsuitable weather conditions, it is possible to reschedule the ascent or climb another 4,000-meter peak in the Alps.
Route
Zermatt (1600 m) - Hörnli Hütte (3262 m) - Hörnli Ridge - Matterhorn (4478 m).
Itinerary
Meeting point
The meeting point with the group is arranged by the guide.
Day 1. Beginning of acclimatization and training.
Meeting in Zermatt. Short briefing, equipment check. Equipment rental if necessary. Then we take a train to the foot of Riffelhorn. The approach is short - about 15 minutes, and we are already at the start of the route. 6 interesting sections on the wall will lead us to the summit with a cross. We descend along the ridge with a couple of overhanging rappels. We return to Zermatt by train.
Gaining 250 meters of altitude. Descending 250 meters. 3 hours of rock climbing, 1 hour of alpinism.
Day 2. Acclimatization ascent of Breithorn (Central and Western).
In the morning, we ascend to the Glacier Paradise station. From there, it takes about one and a half hours to approach the route via the glacier in rope teams. The route starts with a 100-meter ice climb onto the ridge. Further on, there is a medium-difficulty rocky ridge with short steep sections. The rocky ridge ends at the climb to the Central summit of Breithorn. After crossing the Central summit, we ascend to the Western peak via a narrow snowy ridge and then descend back to the station.
Elevation gain of 500 m. Elevation loss of 500 m. 6-8 hours of alpinism.
Day 3. Approach to the Hörnli Hut.
We are not in a hurry. We take the cable car and then walk to the hut. We have a snack and then go to explore the rocks on the ridge. One to one and a half hours of climbing will help us adapt to the rocks and calm our trembling hands.
Gaining 1000 m altitude. Descending 300 m. 6 hours of hiking and alpinism.
Day 4. Ascent and descent to Zermatt.
Starting early, around 5 am. There's no point in describing the route - you will see and experience it all with your own eyes. You need to move quickly and carefully. It should take around 4-5 hours to reach the summit and 5-6 hours to descend. Don't forget that there is still a descent to Zermatt, and you should try to catch the cable car. Otherwise, it's a 1600 meter descent on foot.
Ascending elevation gain of 1200 m and descending elevation loss of 1800 m with 12 hours of hiking and mountaineering.
Day 5. Extra day for bad weather.
If the ascent has to be postponed to the next day, then Day 5 would be the same as described in the previous day. Otherwise, it will depend on the agreement made beforehand.
Possible changes
The guide may make changes to the program if weather conditions, the physical or psychological state of the guests require it, up to canceling the program.
Map
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