Aiguille de L'M: Arête NNE, D- 5b

Aiguille de L'M 2844 m
Route starts at 2660 m
D- 5b>5a II P3

General information

Super nice route on one of the niddles of Chamonix. Holds are very polished at the crux. Not that long — only 6 pitches, but doing it in boots will add some extra challenge. This is one from the Chamonix classics.

History

First ascent: 25 august 1945.

Approach

1h30 to 2hrs from Montenvers, 2 to 2h30 from Plan de l'Aiguille

From Montenvers follow the path towards the Plan de l'Aiguille, until faint path on the left. This goes up at first, than makes some very easy angled hairpins before traversing a long way to the right. It then heads straight up towards the foot of left hand ridge of l'Aiguille de l'M.

From Plan de l'Aiguille, follow various paths towards the E, below Lac Bleu, then reach the moraine of the left bank of the Blaitière glacier. Cross it obliquely (it is covered in stones), then reach the right hand moraine, and cross the boulders (two faint paths, the lower one passes some bivvy sites) to reach the Nantillons moraine.

Cross the lower snout of the glacier, (exposed to stonefall and seracs,) going markedly downwards, to reach a faint path on the other bank, which climbs back up to a little, grassy col under the NW face of the Aiguille de l'M, (which is straight in front of you.) From there, traverse under the N face, either just below where it steepens (stonefall risk,) or lower down. One reaches a shoulder under the NNE ridge, then some slabs.

Route

3-4 hours. The route starts at the foot of some nice slabs, not far from a snow gully, which borders the first part of the ridge to the E.

• L1, 4c, 30m. Easy rocks lead to the start of the real climbing, a move onto a slab with a thin crack, followed by a crack to the right, then another to the left, (4c). Belay on some flakes at the foot of a chimney.
• L2, 5a, 50m. Climb this short chimney by the left, then a steep wall above a niche, (2 pitons, a move of 5a), to reach a large terrace, which overlooks the N face. Belay on a large boulder
• L2, 4c, 30m. Climb a big corner, thankfully not vertical, but very smooth and cut by one or two deep cracks where you can work on your knee jamming technique (4c.) Belay on a welcome terrace (pegs.)
• L4, 4c, 30m. There is an overhanging flake of rock. The next belay (no. 4) is on a good terrace with solid flakes.
• L5, 5b (вариант 6а), 15m. Careful, directly above the belay there are two pegs, which are on a harder, more exposed variation (6a). Traverse 3-4m to the left on a ledge which stops, climb up some steep runnels (short passage of 5b, pegs), a little layback corner then gain a ledge to the right, a letter box which leads to the N face.
• L6, 3c, 45m. Here again be careful, above there is another letter box, with rotting slings. There are also some pegs in the bulge above, which lead into difficult ground. Cross the letterbox to the right and climb the large blocks (3c), until the summit ridge.

Descent

2 hours

From just below the summit, make an 23m abseil from bolts, (at least two options.) This is quickly followed by a second abseil of 10m. From here, scramble diagonally downwards, (to the right looking down,) for about 45m to another abseil point. A 15m abseil brings you to the Col de la Buche. Descend the Buche gully, firstly on the left bank then briefly on the right bank before crossing back to the left bank, (cairn) to reach a path which leads to some ladders and hand rails and so to the loose moraine debris at the side of the Nantillons glacier.

From here, first choice is: To descend by the scree and then, by the center of the glacier, descend to its end. If you want to reach Montenvers, turn right, cross the moraine, and traverse to the right along an obscure path to reach the ascent trail.

Second choice - Descend onto the left moraine and follow it downwards until you reach a trail leading left to Plan de l'Aiguille (50 minutes) or right to Montenvers (40 minutes).

Remarks

• Warm and sunny! The first pitches are in the shade in the morning.
• It is short but worth the effort. Be warned: polished holds and the « Chamonix grade 4.»
• There maybe climbers on the «Menegaux», careful not to dislodge stones.

Equipment

• set of cams
• 6 alpine draws
• slings for the anchors
• crampons and ice-axe if there is snow on the approach on the north side